Neck joints
| Joint | How it attaches | Sustain & attack | Repairability | Common on |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bolt-on | Four screws through a plate into a neck pocket | Snappy attack, slightly less sustain | Easy — remove and replace in minutes | Fender Tele/Strat, most modern Fender-style guitars |
| Set | Glued into a deep mortise | Smoother attack, longer sustain | Difficult — requires steam or careful unglue | Gibson Les Paul, SG, ES‑335, PRS |
| Neck-through | Single piece runs from headstock to tail; body wings glued on | Maximum sustain, very even response | Effectively non-serviceable if neck is damaged | Many neck-through bass guitars, Gibson Firebird, BC Rich |
Bolt-on construction is the easiest to live with: a damaged neck means a swap, not a luthier’s bench. Set necks reward you with sustain at the cost of ever needing major repair.
Neck profiles
The cross-section shape of the neck. Profile is what your palm actually feels.
| Profile | Cross-section | Feel | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Modern C | Soft “C” with even shoulders | Comfortable for most hand sizes | All-purpose default |
| Slim C / D | Shallower C, flatter back | Fast, low-profile | Shred, technical playing |
| V (soft / hard) | Pointed ridge down the back | Encourages thumb-over playing | Vintage Tele & Strat fans |
| U / Baseball bat | Thick, rounded | Fills the palm; very stiff feel | ’50s Tele lovers, big hands |
| Asymmetric | Thicker on bass side, thinner on treble | Ergonomic; leans into chord-vs-lead use | Modern boutique designs |
Profile is personal. The only reliable way to pick one is to play several and notice which one disappears under your hand.
Scale length
The distance from nut to bridge saddle. Two scales dominate electric guitars:
| Scale | Length | String tension | Fret spacing | Sound | Common on |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gibson | 24.75″ | Lower — easier bends | Tighter | Warmer, fuller | Les Paul, SG, ES‑335 |
| Fender | 25.5″ | Higher — firmer feel | Wider | Brighter, snappier | Tele, Strat, Jazzmaster |
| PRS | 25″ | Between the two | Between the two | Hybrid feel | Most PRS Custom 24 |
| Baritone | 27″–30″ | Much higher (designed for low tunings) | Wide | Tight, deep low end | Drop-tuning & baritone guitars |
| Short-scale | ~24″ or less | Lower | Tight | Smaller, more focused | Mustang, Jaguar, student guitars |
Scale length is one of the few specs that you can feel immediately when you change guitars — the same string at the same tuning will be slacker on a Gibson than a Fender.
Truss rod
A steel rod inside the neck that counteracts string tension and lets the neck’s relief (forward bow) be adjusted. Two types are common:
- Single-action — tightens to reduce relief; loosens to allow more. Vintage Fender and Gibson standard.
- Dual-action / two-way — can push the neck either direction. More forgiving on modern guitars and basses.
The adjustment nut is usually at the headstock or under a cover at the body end. Small turns — a quarter at a time, then let the neck settle — go a long way.